• “Leonera”: The Lionness Roars

    May 16th 2008

    Director Pablo Trapero scored a home run with the first of two Argentine films in competition at the Cannes Film Festival this year. “Leonera” (Lion’s Den) put a believable, complex character into harrowing circumstances and made sure that the audience stayed on her side. The film opens with a blood-spattered Julia waking up in an apartment that has become a crime scene. Soon thereafter, she’s hustled off to prison where she eventually gives birth to a son. Is she guilty? We’re not sure. The film’s ambiguity avoids a simplistic “Innocents Behind Bars”  message movie. Her jailhouse life is credible without trying to be a sociological study and her ultimate redemption (through her child, of course) manages to be gently surprising. Tighter editing would have helped the film’s pace which drags at times but the performances are always compelling.

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  • “Blindness”: Mindless

    May 16th 2008

    All that waiting, and the opening night film of the Cannes Film Festival was a bust. Directed by the Brazilian Fernando Meirelles and with an excellent cast that includes Julianne Moore and Mark Ruffalo, “Blindness” nevertheless proved to be a drawn out, lackluster affair. It starts with one person and then the whole world starts going blind with the unexplained exception of Julianne Moore who plays the Doctor’s Wife. The blind lead the blind (Allegory Alert!) and –who would have thought?–civilization descends into barbarity. People are really mean to each other but, in the end, Love prevails. There you have it. Although Julianne Moore worked hard, her character was thinly written but, then again, characters don’t count in this movie. It’s the Big Idea that counts.

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    Cannes Film Festival Selection Announced

    April 24th 2008

    The 61st Cannes Film Festival, led by jury president Sean Penn, is starting to shape up. Does it seem very last minute for a festival starting in three weeks? It is. This year more than any other was marked by last minute crises over if and when certain films would be finished. Clint Eastwood and Steven Soderbergh contributed to the suspense; their entries were confirmed only hours before the announcement yesterday. And we still don’t know which films will be opening and closing the festival!

    Here’s the list of the films in competition:

    “Uç Maymun” (The Three Monkeys): Turkey: Nuri Bilge Ceylan
    “Le silence de Lorna”: Belgium: Jean-Pierre and Luc Dardenne
    “Changeling”: USA: Clint Eastwood
    “Un Conte de Noel”: France: Arnaud Desplechin
    “Adoration”: Canada: Atom Egoyan
    “Waltz with Bashir”/ Israel: Ari Folman
    “La Frontiere de l’Aube”: France: Philippe Garrel
    “Gomorra”: Italy: Matteo Garrone
    “24 City”: China: Jia Zhangke
    “Synecdoche, New York”: USA: Charlie Kaufman
    “My Magic”: Singapore: Eric Khoo
    “L Mujer sin Cabeza”: Argentina: Lucrecia Martel
    “Serbis”: Philippines: Brillante Mendoza
    “Delta”: Hungary: Kornel Mundruczo
    Linha de Passe”: Brazil: Walter Salles and Daniela Thomas
    “Che”: USA: Steven Soderbergh
    Il Divo” : Italy: Paolo Sorrentino
    “Leonera”: Argentina: Pablo Trapero
    “The Palermo Shooting”: Germany: Wim Wenders

    Stay tuned for more news about the festival including my secret advice for seeing festival films without a badge. And it’s legal! See more about visiting Cannes, France.

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    A trip to the Var

    April 18th 2008

    Even when you live in what is arguable the most heavenly place in Europe, sometimes you just gotta getaway. And so we took a little break this week in the Var, a region I don’t know terribly well. OK, I visited St Tropez once about five years ago as part of a guidebook update but, as usual, was too frazzled to enjoy it. This time we did.

    Just heading aimlessly west, we found ourselves in a little village called La Plan de la Tour (le what de la what?). It’s a tiny stone village buried in the Maures mountains inland from the Golfe de Saint Tropez. We headed to the tourist office and started calling around for accommodation. What luck! We settled on La Bergerie a couple of kilometres outside the village. It’s a typical mas de Provence with a sprawling terrain that includes a swimming pool, vineyards, boules court and outdoor terrace. The room was cheery and the Carantas couldn’t have been more welcoming. This delightful, outgoing couple provided a wealth of local info and conjured up amazing breakfasts.

    St Tropez is, as always, an island of pastel houses and boutiques amid an ocean of cars. For a midweek afternoon in April, the traffic getting into and out of town was truly stupifying. I can only imagine the summer gridlock and imagining it is as close as we intend to get to St Tropez in the summer.

    It wasn’t really beach weather but I really wanted to check out Pamplonne, St Tropez’s premier beach. It’s 5km of sand curving around a gentle bay with the mountains in the distance. The famous beach hangouts were just barely getting started so we were able to appreciate the silence broken only by wind and waves.

    The region surprised me by its rusticity and lack of development. It’s not at all like the Nice region with its urban sprawl. There, you can drive for miles and see little but parasol pines and vineyards–lots of vineyards!

    Other spots we were most impressed with include Gessin and Grimaud, two little mountain villages where the narrow streets are festooned with flowers and plants.

    We could have used some restaurant advice though. In Plan de la Tour we ate only moderately well and it was quite expensive. Sainte-Maxime was little better. The food was OK but that’s all.

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    Nice Jazz Festival 2008: The Program

    April 11th 2008

    Finally! The Nice Jazz Festival is returning to jazz. After an increasingly pop-rock-funk program the last five or six years, the new director, Gerard Drouot is returning the festival to its jazzy roots. Here’s a preview of the 2008 Jazz Festival that runs from July 19 through July 25.

    • July 19: Archie Shepp, Avishai Cohen, Rufus Wainwright, Stacey Kent
    • July 20: Ibrahim Maalouf, Barbara Hendricks, The Magnus Lindgren Quartet, Hocus Pocus, George Benson.
    • July 21: Sanseverino, Stefano De Battista, Diana Krall
    • July 22: Maria Schneider Orchestra, Leonard Cohen, Maceo Parker
    • July 23: Nigel Kennedy, Jean-Luc Ponty, Return to Forever (Chick Corea, Stanley Clarke, Al Di Meola, Lenny White
    • July 24: Hubert-Felix Thiefaine, Paul Personne, Michel Portal, San Francisco Jazz Collective, Alain Bashung
    • July 25: Garry Burton Quartet with Pat Metheny, Steve Swallow, Antonio Sanchez, Johy Mayall and the Bluesbreakers, Yael Naim, AaRON
    • July 26: Bonobo, Pink Martini, Craig Adams, Joan Baez

    What a pleasure. OK, the tickets are a little more expensive than usual, ranging from €31 to €51 on “prestige nights” (such as the first concert by Leonard Cohen in 15 years) but this is a good thing. The last few years the concerts have been a crowded, miserable mess in which you spent more time dodging hyped-up toddlers than listening to the music.

    As in previous years, the concerts will take place in the Arenes de Cimiez, the verdant hill with Roman ruins in east Nice.

    Tickets are on sale now; see the Nice Jazz Festival site for more information.

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    Luc Salsedo

    April 8th 2008

    Restaurants in Nice can be dicey. We can eat well here but you have to choose carefully. Good value for money can be hard to find.

    We’ve eaten a few times at Luc Salsedo and have never been disappointed. The cuisine is exquisite and always based on fresh, local ingredients. I find that the €25 lunch menu offers extraordinary value but don’t go in ravenous! Portions are modest. I ordered only the starter and main course. It was fine but I still wanted more. We split a dessert and that did the trick.

    The menus change every two weeks and you always have a choice of three for the starter, main course and dessert. The young chef is strong in the vegetable department which especially pleases me. John felt that the foie gras was the best he’s ever eaten in his life. It’s not my thing.

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    Massena Museum Opens

    April 7th 2008

    It’s been a long wait but well worth it. The Musée Massena (Massena Museum) in Nice finally opened after a nine-year restoration. For years, I would stroll by the stately exterior wondering when (if ever) I could see what’s inside.

    I waited a while after the opening ceremony in March to pay a visit. I took advantage of the special €2.50 fee (it’s usually €4) and chose a Saturday instead of the first and third Sundays of the month when admission is free.

    All in all, it was a charming excursion into Nice history. Although the museum claims to own some 15,000 objects displaying the history of Nice, only a fraction were on display. My favorite was the display of photos and paintings showing Nice up through WWII. It gave an excellent idea of a less developed and more relaxed city.

    My only complaint (and it’s not a small one) is that there was a lack of labelling on the objects. In many cases, it was not really clear what you were looking at.

    Ah, but that’s why admission is only €2.50, the ticket seller told me. In another month or so, all will be in order and the museum will be even more fascinating to visit.

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    Cannes Film Festival Day 3

    May 18th 2007

    “Terror’s Advocate” (”L’Avocat de la Terreur” in French) by Barbet Schroeder is not for everyone. This documentary about the infamous French lawyer, Jacques Vergés, who defended Klaus Barbie could be unsettling for anyone who believes a character study should reach a definitive conclusion about its subject. Is this friend of the deservedly friendless (like Pol Pot, Carlos the Jackal and other charmers) a fellow traveller of evildoers, a misguided fool, an unscrupulous lawyer who could justify anything, an egomaniac, an agent of the French secret police, a fortune hunter? This meticulously researched and subtle documentary lets you decide. Vergés comes across as a highly intelligent, engaging character whose inner motivation remains mysterious.

    He begins his career defending an Algerian woman accused of bombing a cafe during Algeria’s struggle for independence. His sympathy for the Algerian cause and love for his client (they later married) immediately engages the viewer. Through interviews with Verges and several long-time friends his sincerity is obvious.

    Matters then become murkier. An old friend insists that he is “sentimental, very sentimental”. She repeats the word several times. Then we learn that Verges abruptly abandoned his family and “disappeared” for seven years. The gap is not completely explained but it appears that he spent some time in Cambodia with his good friend Pol Pot and then returned to Paris and became involved in the Palestinian cause.

    He’s broke and then suddenly not at all broke. He’s throwing cash around, buying furniture, paying with small bills. His defense of his celebrated Algerian wife has endeared him to Palestinian terrorists, or freedom fighters, depending on your point of view. He becomes involved in the defense of Palestinians accused of attacking an El Al plane in Athens. Vergés has a taste for the good life and the terrorists pay well.

    Or do they? In an odd interview, a former member of the French secret police comes close to stating outright that Vergés was working for the French government. How else to explain the fact that he’s allowed to live and work in Paris undisturbed despite nearly irrefutable evidence of his long friendship with Carlos the Jackal?

    In addition to probing the character of this enigmatic man, the film traces the development of pre-911 international terrorism with its links between Algerians, Palestinians, Iranians, Swiss Nazis and the Bader-Meinhof gang. I don’t know how Schroeder got interviews with three decades worth of bomb-throwing radicals (”Yes I was in charge of recruiting pretty Algerian girls to plant bombs”) but it makes a fascinating story even if the links become increasingly tangled and tricky to follow. Certainly the film runs too long.

    I chose the film because, as a former defense lawyer, I was curious how Jacques Vergés approached his work and how the director would approach him. Having known radical lawyer Lynne Stewart in New York, I sympathized with her legal predicament, if not her politics. And how often had people asked me how I could defend those horrible people (i.e. muggers and dope dealers)! At the end, Vergés gives the standard defense lawyer reply about how you must give your heart and soul to the client without “crossing the white line”, as he put it.

    Yet the truth lies more in the obvious relish with which he approached trial work. “There’s 40 lawyers against me. That must mean they are worth 1/40th of me! And every day they come to court worrying–what is the little bastard going to do today!” In defending Klaus Barbie he put the French on trial for their crimes in Algeria. The “Butcher of Lyon” tortured the French resistance just as the French occupiers tortured the Algerian resistance was Vergés’ defense. I don’t know if I buy it, but for the courtroom it would be the only plausible line of defense.

    This is an intelligent, provocative film that deserves a wider release than it will probably get.

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    Cannes Film Festival Day 2

    May 17th 2007

    The festival began in true French Riviera style: a gorgeous, warm sunny day and a train strike. So, new? Everyone seemed to be just getting their bearings today, especially me, but it looks like an exciting line-up of films. The opening night film “My Blueberry Nights” of Wong Kar Wai did not get particularly good buzz despite the presence of jazzwoman Norah Jones and heartthrob Jude Law.

    Speaking of directors with three short vowel-ridden names, what struck me about this year’s filmmakers is the strong presence from Asia. China, Taiwan, Japan, Thailand, Hong Kong and Korea have sent quite a number of films in competition and out-of-competition. Others of the non-Western European persuasion include Christian Mungiu of Romania, Carlos Reygadas of Mexico, Fatih Akin of Turkey, Bela Tarr of Hungary and Alexander Sokurov of Russia. I am most abashed to see Kadri Kousaar, a 27-year-old (27!) from Estonia showing a film in the “Un Certain Regard” category.

    I’m trying to get my priorities in order by reading the daily Variety-Cannes edition for the scoop on notable movies. I’m stoked. Even the background details read like poetry. Check this out:

    Fay Grimm US Germany a
    Magnolia Pictures
    release in US of an
    HdNet Films
    presentation of a
    Possible Films
    production in association with
    This Is That and
    Zero Fiction
    with the support of
    Medienboard Berlin
    Brandenburg.

    (only the punctuation has been changed)

    Could the film be as cool as the production credits?

    Inquiring minds want to know.

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    chantecler!!

    March 15th 2007

    Cela faisait longtemps que j’y pensais,et enfin ,onl’a fait:déjeuner au negresco.Fini le menu a 200f du siécle dernier,mais pour 45 ou 55e(avec vin et café) on a tout:le cadre,le service et une qualité culinaire au niveau du prix.Pour les détails voyez les commentaires de jeanne (en anglais!)

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