Best Baguette on the French Riviera
Oh, so what. A baguette, you might think. How good could it be? It’s just bread, after all. Granted. If all you’ve been eating is that tasteless, industrial, feeble excuse for a baguette that’s on sale everywhere from supermarkets to your lesser boulangeries, I can forgive your cynicism. Reader, I submit for your consideration Le Petit Moulin, a boulangerie under the loving supervision of Christian Rassent and winner of the 2010 Best Traditional Baguette in the Alpes-Maritimes award.
Where the standard baguette is crisp on the outside and soft on the inside, Mr Rassent’s loaf has a slight crispiness on the outside giving way to an airy but chewy intererior. The standard baguette is almost odorless and has a slightly cloying, immediately forgettable flavor. At Le Petit Moulin the baguette has a distinctly nutty aroma and the robust sweet/sourflavor lingers in the mouth. It’s a bready-bread. Best of all, it lasts. The standard baguette is pretty much finished in 12 hours and is rock-hard in 24. Rassent’s bread is still delicious after days.
What’s his secret? The starter dough. Eschewing baker’s yeast, this bread-man uses a sourdough starter. It takes longer but there’s just no comparison when it comes to the texture, the taste or the longevity of the loaf.
Must cost a fortune, then? Not so. His loaf is a mere €1.20, only slightly more expensive than inferior bread. But you will have to go out of your way for it. Le Petit Moulin is far from anyplace a tourist would ever think to visit in a neighborhood the French tactfully call populaire. It’s at 144 bd Madeleine, Nice not the most convenient location but what is convenient is the automatic bread dispensary just a few blocks away at the intersection of Route de Canta Galet and Route de Bellet, not far from Nice’s vineyards.



If you are in the Cannes area, I would strongly recommend Boulangerie de la Californie (96 avenue Marechal Juin, terrific baguette and various succulent local breads…and, unfortunately for my belly, macaroon). In the Antibes area, we are very lucky because we have Veziano near the old walls (authentic fougasse, located rue de la Pompe) and Manganelli (rue Aubernon near the Provençal market) with stratospheric onion tarts, apple tart and baguette as well as pain de campagne. In Cannes, you can also go to Paul (8 rue Meynadier) near the townhouse.