Amid all the gastronomic pleasures of the French Riviera, Les Terraillers in Biot is a standout. Set in a sprawling 16th-century pottery, Les Terraillers has been in the Fulci family for generations. Now the toque is on the head of young Michael Fulci who has justly received a Michelin star for his imaginative take on regional cuisine.

I’m not an unreserved fan of molecular cuisine but I admit that a little foam can perk up my palate in a unique way. In Les Terraillers the “molecular” touches were used as exclamation points to Mr. Fulci’s culinary statements. We began with amuse-bouches of incredible lightness and taste. Paper-thin wafers, anchovy butter with olive rolls and truffle-scented foam transformed earthy Provencale flavors into an otherworldly sensation. I chose the three-course Menu Saveur du Moment (€69) and began with tiny frogs legs in a papery green crust presumably of the same watercress petal sauce that moistened the legs along with a cream of sweet garlic. Divine. Even more surprising was the filet of sea bream in a crust of corn flakes, green apple and cauliflower. Who would have thought? It was a perfect balance of crunchy, sweet and salty. The dessert was a pear concoction on a pine nut biscuit with caramel sauce. How could a meal be both light and filling and incredibly satisfying at the same time? It was a remarkable achievement.

The setting was also comforting. Unfortunately a sudden shower chased everyone from the flowery outdoor terrace indoors to eat within the cool stone walls that evoked a Provencale farmhouse. The service was attentive but relaxed. We particularly appreciated the staff’s patience in catering to the needs of an elder member of our party.

Les Teraillers is undeniably a pricey experience but very much in line with other celebrated restaurants in the region. Easier on the wallet is the €59 lunch menu that includes wine and coffee. I can’t wait!

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