Yesterday I attended one of my favorite local traditions: Renouvellement du Vœu de Nice or Renewal of the Vow of Nice. This tradition dates from 1832 when a cholera epidemic was devastating the region. Nice officials swore that if Nice was spared, the city would place itself under the protection of the Virgin Mary and build a new church.

It worked! Nice was spared from the ravages of cholera. It might have been due to the strict quarantine that separated Nice from the lands west of the Var river but no matter. Everyone was pleased and construction of the new church, Egliste Saint Baptiste–Le Voeu began soon after.

Since 1833  an annual ceremony requires the mayor to again place the city under the protection of the Virgin. But isn’t France committed to laïcité, or the separation of church and state? To my knowledge, the Renewal of the Vow is the only ceremony that requires the direct participation of Nice’s mayor. I was curious to see how Mayor Estrosi handled it.

The ceremony started on the Place Saint Francois with the Garde Municipale Band playing local ditties, including Nissa La Bella, Nice’s town anthem.

Then Mayor Estrosi arrived to make his remarks. Rather than formally placing Nice under the protection of the Virgin, he spoke about the origins of the ceremony and how important it is to honor Nice’s local culture and tradition. Perhaps a little defensively, he spoke about the fact that neither the Prefect or any other official lodged an objection.

Mayor Estrosi delivers the Voeu de Nice

At the conclusion of his remarks a small crowd gathered to escort a statue of the Virgin and Child to the Egliste Saint Baptiste–Le Voeu. Also present were the White and Red Penitents, a Catholic brotherhood present in Nice since the 14th century.

White and Red Penitents heading the procession

A small procession walked slowly to the Eglise du Voeu across the Promenade du Paillon.

The church doors opened to receive the procession and then hold mass.

Afterwards, the parishioners poured out of the church to celebrate with wine and snacks. A local folklore troupe, La Ciamada Nissarda, provided the entertainment.

The procession is held each year at the end of May or the beginning of June. It’s a wonderful and totally non-touristy way to experience local culture.

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