The center of action in November is moving from the beach inland to town centers, concert halls, arenas and clubs. There’s so much to do! From first-rate jazz and pop to dance, classical music and flamenco shows, culture vultures won’t be bored this month. In addition to the special events listed below, don’t forget that the Nice Opera is in full swing with a choice of events from opera to free Afterwork concerts in the Opera or in the Cave Bianchi in the old town.

With the cooler weather it’s much more comfortable to take long walks along the coast or a short hike up Nice’s Mont Boron for stunning views. How to do it?  Check out my detailed guide to the Best Walks on the French Riviera

 

I’ve been getting a lot of questions about the protests currently rocking France. Is it safe to visit now? Yes. The protests of October 17 in Nice were fairly disorderly, with stores along avenue Jean Médecin absorbing significant damage. Yet, the violence was nowhere near as extreme as in Paris or Marseille. Since then, each Saturday protest has been calmer, partly due to an increased law enforcement presence. It’s impossible to predict the future but note that protests are only on Saturday and are largely centered on Place Masséna with some spillover to the surrounding neighborhood including parts of avenue Jean Médecin. For visitors it’s wise to avoid wandering around that area at night. Service on tram line 1 may be disrupted on Saturdays.

Now for this month’s special events.

Nice

Nice-Cannes Marathon

November 8, Promenade des Anglais

The 42km between Cannes and Nice is long enough to be a challenge for local runners and certainly must be one of the world’s most scenic marathons. The festivities start with a little breakfast run along the Promenade des Anglais on November 7 at 10am in front of the Oceanice Conference Center on Port Lympia. The main event starts at 8am November 8 at the Jardin Albert 1er also on the Promenade des Anglais. The first runners should arrive after two hours at the Festival Palace in Cannes. Organizers are expecting a record-breaking 26,000 participants. The prizes will be awarded late morning . More here. Can’t make it to the race? France 3/ICI Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur will broadcast more than three hours of the marathon live, from 7:45 a.m. until about 11:20 a.m.

Jazz Concert Two Pianos Two Trios

November 13 Espace Grappelli 8.30pm

The Cyril Benhamou Trio and the Eym Trio will journey into the heart of contemporary jazz in this joint concert. should be hot! More info and tickets here

Ensemble Baroque de Nice

November 13 Eglise Saint François-de-Paule 8pm

This local  ensemble holds regular classical concerts, usually in a church. This program is devoted to two Bach concertos. Tickets are €22.20. More info here.

Beaujolais Nouveau

November 19

Bars and cafes will be packed on the third Thursday of November when the new Breaujolais is traditionally released throughout France. Head to your favorite watering hole or check out these two venues which offer very special ways to join the festivities. At Le Napoléon, on Place Garibaldi, the American Club of the Riviera is hosting an evening from 6–9pm featuring three Beaujolais wines accompanied by an assortment of French specialties including cheeses, charcuterie, pissaladière, croque monsieur, an octopus verrine and desserts. The evening costs €50 for guests (€40 for members). Reservations and information here

For a more affordable and distinctly local celebration, Le Gaglio, at 2 Place Saint-François, hosts the Lions Club Nice Impérial Beaujolais Nouveau evening from 7pm. The €30 ticket includes a generous buffet and a tombola, with proceeds supporting research into childhood diseases and adult and childhood cancers. Champagne will also be available. Advance reservation is required and places are limited. Reservations are by phone at 06 25 43 33 53 or 06 63 18 02 19, or by email to jeanmarc.remond@sfr.fr or josephlebris@hotmail.fr.

Vanessa Paradis

Palais Nikaïa November 13 8pm

Vanessa Paradis returns to the stage with a new album drawing on the pop and soul influences that have long been part of her musical identity. Adrien Gallo is the opening act. Tickets range from €35 to €110. Buy tickets

La Castagnada– Chestnut Festivals

Saturdays–Various Venues

The French word castagnade refers to the traditional roasting and eating of chestnuts, a particularly popular autumn custom in southern France and the Mediterranean. The arrival of autumn is celebrated in Nice with La Castagnada, a series of free neighborhood chestnut festivals featuring roasted chestnuts, music, entertainment and refreshments. On Saturday, November 7, the festivities take place at Jardin Alsace Lorraine on boulevard Gambetta from 1–5pm, with a performance by the Chorale Branche d’Or Nice Côte-d’Azur from 1:45–2:30pm. On Saturday, November 14, head to Jardin Saint-Jean d’Angély on rue Sorgentino, where the celebration runs from 1–5pm with chestnut tasting, music and activities. The final event takes place on Wednesday, November 25, at Place Alexandre Médecin in the Hauts de Nice, again from 1–5pm. These local fêtes offer a chance to enjoy one of the region’s favorite autumn traditions while discovering some of Nice’s less-touristy neighborhoods. All events are free.

Flamenco Performance

Theatre de la Cité November 14 at 8:30pm; November 15 at 3pm.

Íntimo by Kaena Colorá brings the passion and intensity of flamenco to Nice. This 90-minute show combines powerful flamenco dance with singing and live music, offering an intimate journey into the emotions, rhythms and traditions of Andalusia. Tickets are €20, with reduced prices of €15 and €12. Book tickets.

Cagnes-sur-Mer

Fete de la Chataigne

November 15 Place de Gaulle 10am

There will be free grilled chestnuts of course but so much more. This chestnut festival celebrates rural life in the hills of the back country. In addition to sampling local cheese, honey, jams and olive oil don’t miss the farmers parading their livestock through the streets. Kids will love the pony rides. Click here for the program.

Villefranche-sur-Mer

Beaujolais Nouveau Evening

November 21 from 7:30pm Chapiteau de la Citadelle

Celebrate the arrival of the new Beaujolais in a 16th-century fortress. Organized by the Comité des Fêtes, the evening combines Beaujolais Nouveau with dinner, music and dancing, making it a lively alternative to the more formal wine-tasting events in Nice. Tickets are €25 and should be reserved in advance. Reservations: 06 22 61 03 30, before November 14. More info here.

Antibes

Fete des Châtaignes

November 7, 5:30-7.30pm

The Commune Libre de Safranier (Free Commune of Safranier) is a part of Antibes’s Old Town dedicated to preserving its traditions. One of those events is the annual Chestnut Festival. Eat your grilled chestnuts, wash them down with vin chaud and dance along with the crowd to traditional Provencale tunes. There’s also polenta with porcini-mushroom sauce and a glass of wine for €5. The festivities center around the Place du Safranier.

(See my guide to visiting Antibes)

CANNES

Cannes Dance Festival

November 21-December 6 Festival Palace

This prestigious festival highlights the joy and diversity of international dance featuring 25 companies from 11 countries. This 26th edition is focused on Australia. The highlight is the festival opener, Stephanie Lake Company’s Manifesto. More here.

(See my guide to visiting Cannes)

Monaco

Monte Carlo Jazz Festival

November 18-29 Opera Garnier

This prestigious jazz festival presents international stars and is priced accordingly. This year’s headliners include Gregory Porter, Youn Sun Nah, Melody Gardot, Thomas Dutronc and the Soweto Gospel Choir. Tickets start at €100. For more info click here.

Monaco National Day

November 19

Monaco’s National Day marks the date in 1949 when Prince Ranier ascended the throne.

The biggest highlights for visitors are:

• Nov. 18, 8:10pm – Fireworks over Port Hercule. This is probably the most spectacular part for a visitor: the fireworks are launched from the harbor, with the Rock and palace providing the backdrop. Mairie
• Nov. 19 morning – the traditional ceremony on Monaco-Ville. The day begins with the solemn Mass and Te Deum at Monaco Cathedral, followed by the military parade and presentation of decorations at the Palace. The Princely Family traditionally appears during the ceremonies. Monte-Carlo.mc
• Place du Palais is the place to go for the traditional National Day atmosphere—red-and-white flags, crowds and the ceremonial spectacle surrounding the Palace.
• Marché de la Condamine has a more relaxed local celebration on the 19th: local specialties from 10am, a giant stockfish at noon and live music at 7:30pm. Mairie
• The Foire Attractions on Port Hercule runs through November 19, with rides, games and food stalls; it stays open until midnight on National Day. Mairie

(See my guide to visiting Monaco)

Regional Event

C’est Pas Classique

Various Venues November 7-22

This venerable music festival was once devoted almost entirely to classical music and took place in Nice’s Acropolis. Both have changed. C’est pas Classique, now in its 21st edition, embraces everything from classical and baroque to jazz, Latin music, hip-hop, film music and French chanson, and has become a festival that travels throughout the Alpes-Maritimes. From November 7–22, more than 25 free concerts will take place in 14 towns, including Nice, Antibes, Menton, Grasse, Vence and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. The opening concert on November 7 at Nice’s Palais Nikaïa features Colombian salsa star Yuri Buenaventura with the Orchestre Philharmonique de Nice—a suitably unexpected way to launch the festival. Other highlights include Vanessa Wagner with Arthur H, the Hostel Dieu and Compagnie Käfig, Camille Berthollet, and Élodie Frégé. You can check the entire schedule here. All concerts are free, but most require advance reservation, while some are entrée libre and require no reservation. Reservations opened October 19, and a waiting list is available for sold-out concerts. There is no assigned seating, so arrive early if you want a good seat. If ticket holders haven’t arrived 15 minutes before the performance, their places may be redistributed.