Typical December day on the Promenade des Anglais
The French Riviera in winter? Yes! The Cote d'Azur made its reputation in the 19th century as winter destination for upper-class folks fleeing the harsh weather of London, Paris or St Petersburg. Our Mediterranean trees and plants stay green all year and you're likely to see sunny skies more often than not even in December.
As the charts above indicate, even December sees 150 hours of sunshine and an average daytime high of 13°. Winter is a great time to enjoy outdoor activities on the Riviera such as taking a beachside stroll. And there's no worry about sunburns or enervating heat!
Plus there are markets, cultural events, festivals and events. Let's dive in.
I'm not going to tell you that the period from November to April is ideal for swimming. With daytime highs of 13-14°C and water temperature below 16°C, most people find a swim uncomfortably bracing. Also there are no lifeguards and the sea can get rough.
That doesn't stop a crowd of hardy souls from plunging in to the chilly waters for the traditional Bain de Noel all along the coast.
Bain de Noel in Nice
Red cap advisable but not obligatory! It's a fun, celebratory event with music and snacks. The Bain de Noel is held in Nice on a Sunday late-morning in mid-December. Cagnes-sur-Mer holds a Bain de Noel earlier in the month. Antibes holds a Bain de Nouvel An on January 1 on the Plage de Salis. The events are free and you can sign up on the spot. Local tourist offices have the details.
Even on a cold winter day, the sun's rays keep the coast warm enough for outdoor dining at midday. In Nice, Beau Rivage and Blue Beach beach restaurants are open for lunch throughout the winter. Cannes has a number of beach restaurants that stay open for lunch. Try L'Ecrin Plage,Annex Beach or Plage Goeland. Le Cabanon on Plage de Buse, Roquebrune Cap-Martin is another delightful spot for a winter lunch.
The absolute best thing to do during the Riviera winter is to take a walk along the coast. From late spring to early fall the treeless terrain can be uncomfortably hot but winter is the perfect time to experience the coastal views and stunning coastal architecture. Here are some ideas:
First settled by 19th century Brits, Mont Boron is Nice's easternmost hill bordering on Villefranche-sur-Mer. The ornate villas and woodsy ambiance make it one of Nice's most prestigious neighborhoods. Wind your way through woods and parkland up to Fort Alban.
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Every local is sure to do at least part of this walk around the Cap de Nice in east Nice each winter in order to soak up the fading sun and the mesmerizing sea views. Weekends can be busy.
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The Promenade Maurice Rouvier is a short (about 30 minutes), easy, beautiful walk along the sea that runs from the Baie des Fourmis in Beaulieu-sur-Mer to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
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Stunning Cap Ferrat is not to be missed and the best way to experience it is on a coastal walk. Winter's chill vanishes as the sun glints off the sea and warms the rocky paths. There are 14km of well-signposted walks through the leafy peninsula.
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This one hour walk along the Cap d'Ail coast winds past the Belle Epoque villas once inhabited by the likes of Winston Churchill and Greta Garbo.
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The Tirepoil coastal footpath is a wonderful and comfortable winter walk as it runs along woodsy Cap d'Antibes. The walk takes a leisurely two hours.
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Cold, rainy weather (yes it does happen) is the perfect time to duck into a museum. Nice museums are a perfect way to immerse yourself in local art, architecture and history. Or follow an art itinerary to discover the region's rich artistic tradition.
Two excellent museums that are particularly cheering in winter are the Parc Phoenix in Nice and the Oceanographic Museum in Monaco. The former plunges you into a colorful world of exotic plants and flowers, birds, monkeys and reptiles. The latter is a journey into an underwater world of coral, turtles, sharks and sea creatures of all colors.
Winter is high season for concerts, operas and dance. Check out the program at the Nice Opera, the Monte Carlo Opera and the Palais des Festivals in Cannes. And at 11am on January 1 everyone heads to the Nice Opera for the free New Years concert. See live music in Nice for more ideas.
Watch for special winter cultural events such as the Monte Carlo Jazz Festival and the Festival of Dance in Cannes. The International Circus Festival of Monte Carlo is the highlight of January to keep winter gloom at bay.
There's no better way to to get into the swing of local customs than by visiting a local festival. Food is so essential to the Riviera lifestyle, it's not surprising that local products are lavishly celebrated.
Chestnuts are honored throughout the region from mid-October through mid-November in various Fete de la Chataigne. Food stalls, chestnut and other local products and music make it a fun day out for the whole family. Check local tourist office websites for schedules.
There's nothing like a few truffle shavings to liven up a dish. The pricey fungi are celebrated each year in Saint-Paul-de Vence, Grasse, Le Rouret and Villeneuve-Loubet. The Fete de la Truffe is held on a Saturday or Sunday in December or January. Check tourist office websites for details.
Wine-lovers won't want to miss the Portes Ouvertes held each May and November in the vineyards of Bellet. All nine vineyards are open for visits and tastings without reservations the entire weekend. There are also local products for sale and a musical accompaniment in some vineyards. Check Vin de Nice for the dates.
Perhaps the liveliest and most elaborate food celebration is the Fete du Citron held in Menton for two weeks each February.
The mild Menton climate is ideal for citruses, especially lemons. Look for wildly decorated floats, parades and garden tours. There are also side events devoted to flowers, fragrances and citrus-y crafts. The festival is immensely popular throughout the region. It's essential to plan in advance both to have good seats in the stands and to arrange transportation. See the Fete du Citron website for online ticketing, schedules and transport advice.
But local festivals aren't only about food. The small, hand-painted figurines known as santons are a traditional Provencal craft.
In the Alpes-Maritimes, Mouans-Sartoux presents the Foire aux Santons every afternoon from November through Christmas. The train from Nice takes about an hour.
It's worth coming to Nice in February solely to experience the Nice Carnival, a two-week long extravaganza of parades, floats and spectacle.
The parades take place on three or four afternoons or evenings a week during the Carnival period.
In addition to the floats there is also the "Bataille des Fleurs" in which floats resplendent in meticulously arranged flowers glide through the streets while young men and women toss flowers at the spectators. The final weekend of the Carnival includes the "Bartenders Race" and, to cap off the festivities, the Carnival King is burned in the sea on the last night followed by fireworks. There are pedestrian areas and stands around the Place Massena. Buy tickets in advance especially for seats in the stands. See the Nice Carnival website for prices and details.
Beginning around the first weekend in December and lasting to around the first weekend in January towns large and small decorate and illuminate the town centers. Strings of lights add sparkle to trees and arch over roads while major monuments acquire colorful illumination.
Larger towns clear the streets for a Christmas parade at some point during the month. With Santas, traditional dances, floats and bands it's a great event for all ages. It's a budget-buster for small towns but it's worthwhile to check out the parade schedule for Nice, Cannes, Menton and Monaco.
Night falls early in December but there's no reason to huddle indoors. Head out to a brightly lit Christmas market! Every town and village has a nightly Christmas market in the town center with an array of local products on display. It's a great way to support local artisans who turn out everything from jewelry to honey to cheese.
Nice's Christmas market takes place in the Jardin Albert 1er and is open daily from 11am to 9pm, later on weekends. Against the backdrop of a giant Ferris Wheel, dozens of stalls sell Champagne, hot-spiced wine, oysters, socca, cheese, waffles, cold cuts and all manner of local products.
There are special children's activities weekends and Wednesday afternoons. Kids love Santa's house and the House of Sugar. Older folks are treated to a regular "Afterwork" schedule of live bands and DJs. Admission is free but the crowds can be intense especially evenings and weekends.
The Principality pulls out all the stops to celebrate the holiday season. The actions sprawls along Monaco's Port in La Condamine. The olympic swimming pool is the scene of lighted fountain shows. There's a Ferris Wheel and rides for the kids, parades and a full concert schedule. Active kids will love the Village of Sports with a climbing wall, zipline and more.
Each year one or more towns will put up a small ice skating rink as part of the Christmas market experience. Recently the Christmas markets of Cannes and Menton host small ice skating rinks. They can be incredibly crowded though. Serious skaters head to the ice-skating rink in Nice at the Jean Bouin Sports Complex.
Despite France's principle of laïcité (secularism), Christmas creches (nativity scenes) remain hugely popular. The Christmas creche in Nice is displayed on the Place Rossetti in front of Nice's Saint Reparate Cathedral.
Seventeen animated life-size automatons representing Mary, Joseph, farm animals and shepherds bring the nativity scene to life.
The most famous creche displays are presented in the village of Luceram.
The inhabitants of this tiny village put together some 500 creches, remarkable for their individuality and creativity. There's even a museum devoted to this ancient tradition. A special creche circuit is marked on local maps that take you through the entire village. It's open daily from early December to early January with a brief lunch closure on weekdays. There are special ceremonies on Sunday. To get there, take bus 615 from Vauban or take the train to L'Escarene and then bus 615. It takes around 1 1/2 hours. More info here.
Nothing beats an amusement park over the holidays. Kids will love the dozens of rides, contests and prizes. The best on the Riviera is Luna Park, set up in Nice's Palais des Expositions, open daily from early December to early January. See the Luna Park website for details.
Hi! I'm Jeanne Oliver--tour guide and author and I've been living on the Riviera for years. With my local insights your trip will be easy and fun. And, do check out my book Nice Uncovered: Walks Through the Secret Heart of a Historic City.
