Of all the Cote d'Azur's perched villages, Eze has the most impressive position. Looming over the sea at an altitude of 427m, Eze is the highest seaside village in France and makes a dramatic exclamation point along the Moyenne Corniche.
The medieval walls that once encircled the village are long gone but the stony streets of the Old Town still wind precipitously uphill affording occasional glimpses of the sea far below.
Get details on how to do a day trip from Nice to Eze
The curious name, Eze, may derive from the Egyptian goddess, Isis. The ancient Phoenicians who once occupied this spot, allegedly dedicated a temple to her.
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As you climb the path to the village there are lookout points that afford eye-popping views of the coast to Monaco and beyond.
Wandering the streets is the greatest pleasure of visiting Eze. Yes, the streets are crammed with souvenir shops, small restaurants and cafes, galleries and boutiques but somehow the medieval ambience remains.
Enter the village through La Poterne
In the 14th century Eze's rulers, the Dukes of Savoy, became concerned about the security situation in their perched village. The entrance to the village was reinforced with towers, a casemate for a cannon to the left and gatehouses within. The fortified ensemble is called La Poterne.
Follow the marked path uphill on the rue Principale. Notice the trompe l'oeil windows on the left. They date from the 18th century when the street was populated by wealthy families who wished to advertise their status.
Don't miss the Chateau Riquier.
Chateau Riquier
The Riquier family was a wealthy, aristocratic family from Nice who built this outpost in Eze in the 13th century. In the 20th century the building was sold to American composer Samuel Barlow who restored it and also installed this fountain in a square across the street.
The fountain only dates from 1930. Until then water had to be carried uphill to the village from a source near the sea!
A few steps up from the square on the right is this tiny chapel where members of the White Penitents order met and arranged assistance to victims of the Black Plague. Dating from 1306, it's the oldest building in the village. It's also where Eze residents voted to become part of France in 1860.
There are only 2100 residents of Eze and as you climb the streets you might think each one has a boutique! Many of the medieval buildings now house shops and boutiques selling a variety of artisanal items from clothes and bags to jewelry and textiles. The quality is good and the prices are reasonable. If you see something you like, buy it! Don't assume you can get it elsewhere in the region.
A few steps up from the fountain you'll see a sign for the Chateau Eza, formerly known as the "Prince of Sweden Castle". Prince William of Sweden chose this sprawling medieval building as the royal family's holiday residence in 1923 and it remained royally occupied until 1953. Now it houses one of the finest hotels on the Riviera, the Chateau Eza, which also boasts a fine Michelin-starred restaurant. It's worth stopping by at least for a coffee or cocktail on the terrace. Reserve ahead for lunch.
Follow signs to the Jardin Exotique at the top of the village. With drop-dead views and a beautifully curated landscape, it's one of the highlights of any trip to the Cote d'Azur.
Dating from the end of WWII, it's a remarkable site that combines spectacular views with an artfully arranged garden landscape right under the remains of Eze's old fortress.
The gardens were planted in harmony with the local climate. The south side focuses on succulent plants from desert climes in the Americas and Mexico.
The northern side is shady and humid, perfect for myrtle, cistus, tree ferns from New Zealand and other typical Mediterranean plants. The west side shelters subtropical plants such as Cycas, Dicksonia, papyrus and ferns. Here, there's a "contemplative space" with teak lounge chairs next to a bubbling waterfall.
As you wander down the garden landscape, you'll be treated to jaw-dropping views over the coast and down to Eze-sur-Mer.
Along the way, enjoy another feature of the Jardin Exotique: sculpture.
Artist Jean-Philipe Richard created terracotta and bronze sculptures of women to adorn the Jardin Exotique in 2003. Their graceful figures blend in perfectly with the landscape.
After leaving the gardens follow signs to the Eglise Notre Dame de l'Assomption.
This baroque jewel was built at the end of the 18th century by the Italian architect Antoine Spinelli on the ruins of a much older church.
There are 18 sun motifs in the flashy interior which may be an allusion to the worship of Isis, the Egyptian sun goddess. It's said that the ancient Phoenicians occupied this site even before the Romans and erected a temple to the goddess nearby.
Visitors are also drawn to the two famous perfume factories, Galimard and Fragonard. With a long presence in the region, these two establishments vie for visitors, each offering free tours of their perfume factories, explanations of perfume-making and only a tiny bit of sales pressure to buy their products. If you run out of time, don't sweat it. Fragonard has a store in Nice.
There is a small but beautiful beach below the village (way below) in Eze-sur-Mer
and you can walk down to it using the Sentier Friedrich-Nietzche.
Eze from the Sentier Nietzsche
The famous German philosopher wrote Thus Spoke Zarathustra while hiking up to the village from the sea. As he was living in Nice, it was quite a walk!
The path down can be steep and slippery in parts. Wear good shoes or take the 83 bus from outside the village. Eze-sur-Mer is on the coastal train line from Nice. From the train station just follow the signs to the beach.
Five-star Hotels
Le Chateau de la Chevre d'Or
Four-star Hotels
Chateau Eza
Eza Vista
Les Terrasses d'Eze
Three-star Hotels
Eze Hermitage
La Chevre d'Or is one of the most celebrated restaurants in the region and offers highly refined dining. Chateau Eza is also well-known for its cuisine and the splendid views from its terrace. There are many more casual restaurants within and just outside the medieval village.
The settlement of Eze dates back to the Celto-Ligurians who found safety from their high perch over the sea. Remnants of their stay are found in nearby Mont Bastide.
The Romans occupied the site, followed by the Lombards in 578. Until the 9th century the village was known as "Avizio", then became known a "Esa".
In the middle of the 12th century the village was settled by aristocratic families from Nice and the first fortified wall and entrance was constructed. In 1388 Eze became part of the Duchy of Savoy around the same time as Nice.
Eze's subsequent history was tied to that of Nice. In 1543 a Franco-Turkish alliance seized the village despite the strongly fortified walls. Later on in 1706, Louis XIV destroyed the fortified citadel, remnants of which top the Jardin Exotique.
Along with Nice, Eze voted to become part of France in 1860.
By Car
The best way to get to Eze is to take the Moyenne Corniche. There's a parking area below the medieval Chateau that fills up fast.
By Bus
Zou runs line 602 from Nice's Gare Routiere at Vauban.The frequency is every 45 to 60 minutes Monday to Saturday and fewer on Sunday. Get the schedule here. Lignes d'Azur runs bus 82 from the Gare Routiere to Eze Village at least hourly from Monday to Saturday with a few buses on Sunday. It takes about 30 minutes.
By Train
Eze is on the main coastal line that runs from Nice to Monaco but the Eze train station is on the coast. It's a long, steep hike uphill to Eze village via the Nietzsche path. Experienced hikers can make the 427m climb in a few hours. All others should grab bus 83 which takes you from the train station up to the village. Check the bus 83 schedules carefully though as the line is infrequent.
The Eze village tourist office is at the entrance to the medieval town.
Last Updated September 29, 2023
Hi! I'm Jeanne and I've been living on the Riviera for years. With my local insights your trip will be easy and fun. And, do check out my book Nice Uncovered: Walks Through the Secret Heart of a Historic City. More about me here.
