I'll tell you a secret. When we locals dine out in Nice and we're looking to eat well, we make plans for lunch. The best restaurants in Nice are fine for a special occasion but for a more affordable treat we know the restaurants that offer great dining on a shoestring. Often they're run by chefs that got tired of the rigamarole surrounding the Great Michelin Star Chase and opened a little place where they can cook what they feel like. Sometimes, they're young chefs just starting out. Whatever the case, foodies are the winners.
Just note that most only offer their specials on weekdays, sometimes on Saturdays, never Sundays. Reserve at least a few days in advance, maybe more for a Friday lunch which tends to be busy. Lunches are between noon and 2pm. There are at least two choices for all courses but it's best to reserve for noon or 12.30pm to ensure that your preferred dish doesn't run out.
Le Sens
Pain perdu dessert
This large, friendly place is a hit with a local crowd. The menu is a sure bet for uncomplicated, well-prepared bistro-style dishes and it's on rue Pastorelli, not far from Place Massena. For €21 you can choose an entrée + main course or a main course + dessert. Get all three courses for €28. Even the three-course dinner deal is good value at €31. Check the website for the weekly menu. Closed weekends.
Bistrot Gourmand
Shrimp ravioli in sauce
The weekly lunch menu draws from fresh, seasonal produce to produce dishes inspired by traditional French cuisine but with a Mediterranean touch. Located in Vieux Nice, the setting is white-tablecloth elegant and the dishes are prepared with finesse, usually bathed in a delicate sauce. The three-course weekday lunch menu is a steal at €27. Open daily.
Nespo
Broccolini with grilled cod
Located in the heart of the Quartier des Musiciens on boulevard Victor Hugo, this trendy place attracts business people, affluent locals, influencers and the occasional celebrity. Elton John, who has a residence in Nice, has been spotted here. The dishes are deceptively simple but executed to perfection. My broccolini was crisp without being tough and the cod was melt-in-your-mouth tender. For €25 you can choose an entrée + main course or a main course + dessert. Get all three courses for €30. Closed Sunday.
Seafood, fish and carrots in a seafood sauce
South African chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen has opened this modest place near the Port as a counterpoint to his wildly popular flagship restaurant Jan, one of the best restaurants in Nice. The cooking is also imaginative and flawlessly executed but with slightly less expensive ingredients than its sister restaurant. For €27 you can choose an entrée + main course or a main course + dessert. Get all three courses for €32. Closed Monday.
Fine Gueule
Seafood and arugula in a citrus dressing
With a well-deserved Michelin Bib, this place in the Old Town creates fine dining from Nice's traditional dishes. The chef deals directly with local suppliers to ensure the freshest and finest ingredients which are magically transformed into gastronomic delights. The two-course weekday lunch menu with wine for €21.50 is excellent value. Closed Sunday and Monday.
With its rumpled decor and casual ambience, the scrupulous care devoted to the dishes comes as a surprise. Traditional favorites (brandade, bourride) sit alongside excellent artisanal pasta dishes: ravioli and stuffed poultry, seafood linguine and more. Located in the heart of the Old Town this place proposes a three-course lunch deal for €23 that's also available on Saturday. My only complaint about Bar des Oisseaux is that it's crowded and noisy due to its extreme popularity. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Along with Bar des Oisseax and Colita (below), Type 55 is part of Armand Crespo's restaurant empire. (Others include Bistrot d’Antoine, Comptoir du marché, Peixes). Located in the Old Town, the a la carte menu highlights "neo-pizzas", highly unusual takes on the Italian classic. The Mediterranean three course menu is a steal at €22 and is available Tuesday through Saturday.
A La Table du Marché
Grilled tuna in sesame crust over soba noodles
Near to the Liberation market north of the train station, this is the place discerning and budget-consious locals go for a weekday lunch. Chef Jonathan Hassoul chucked his high- pressure career in prestige restaurants to head this casual space . The plat du jour is an unbelievable €13.50 at lunch. Add a glass of wine (€15.90) and a dessert (€18.90) for one of the best deals in Nice. The a la carte menu is a little more but still eminently reasonable. Thankfully he's not next door to me or I'd be there every day for lunch! Closed Sunday.
Grilled vegetables with burrata and pesto
Only steps from Place Garibaldi and the Port, this shiny Art-Deco style bistro is also part of the Crespo brand. The Italian-Columbian chef team turns out imaginatively-seasoned dishes that remain anchored in the Mediterranean. I particularly appreciated the choice of at least three concoctions for the appetizer, main course and dessert. Vegetarians and pescatarians are well-provided for. The three-course lunch menu at €23 is available Tuesday through Saturday. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Cafe des Musiciens
Sweet potato crepe with halloumi
It's been open a couple of years but this casual place in the Quartier des Musiciens has just been noted by Michelin. And rightly so. Australian chef Christopher Edwards keeps his menu short and sweet, accenting local dishes such as a superb panisse with lemon and rosemary. As the chef hails from Paris there are also Parisian and regional dishes such as paté de Pezenas (meat pie), boudin noir and a succulent roast chicken. My vegetarian sweet potato crepe with halloumi doused in a creamy pepper sauce was a revelation. Next time I'll order the oeufs mayo for which he won an award. The weekday lunch menu (Tuesday-Friday) costs €28 for three courses and €24 for two courses. The wine was excellent but costs €10.50 a glass. Dinner is served Thursday through Saturday evenings.
Hi! I'm Jeanne Oliver--tour guide and author and I've been living on the Riviera for years. With my local insights your trip will be easy and fun. And, do check out my book Nice Uncovered: Walks Through the Secret Heart of a Historic City.
