As the first Italian town across the border, Ventimiglia offers you a quick taste of Italy on your visit to the Cote d'Azur. It's amazing how the ambience can change just a few short kilometers from France! Cafe life is always buzzing even in winter. The coffee is excellent and aficionados of Italian food won't be disappointed.

The town is divided into two parts, separated by the Roya river.

Ventimiglia's medieval town is perched on a hill and maintains the quiet ambience of an Italian village.

Most of the action--restaurants, cafes, businesses, markets--are in the newer part of town, between the train station and a rocky beach. Here's where shoppers from across the region come to do their grocery shopping in Ventimiglia's covered market (open Monday-Saturday until 2pm).

For reasons that have never been adequately explained, groceries are substantially cheaper in Ventimiglia than they are just over the border. The best deals are on Italian cheese, fresh pasta and various products that are difficult to obtain outside of Italy.

The main draw for travellers however is the Ventimiglia Friday market. Stall after stall fill the streets of the "new town" east of the river, selling clothes, leather goods, jewelry, household items and more. Don't be afraid to bargain and you're sure to find some good deals.

One word of caution though. For too long the Ventimiglia market has been selling fake designer goods such as "Louis Vuitton" bags, "Rolexes", "Hermes" accessories. French customs officials are wise to the ways of Ventimiglia now and frequently conduct spot checks of travellers coming back from Ventimiglia by train or car. The fines for possessing designer fakes are astoundingly high and officials are unforgiving.

Ventimiglia can be shoulder-to-shoulder with shoppers on Friday, especially in July and August. Prices are higher too. If it's the Italian experience you're after, come during the week, have a gelato, and peruse the market and regular stores which are still cheaper than France.

Getting to Ventimiglia

The best way to get to Ventimiglia is by train. Trains from Nice run hourly at least and the trip takes about an hour. The Ventimiglia train station is right in the centre of town which is convenient. Be aware that the trains returning to Nice late Friday afternoon are hideously crowded. Try to return early in the afternoon or stay for dinner and return in the evening.

If you must take your car, go via the A8 motorway. Note that parking in town on Friday is nearly non-existent.